Sacred Valley, Peru

The Sacred Valley of the Incas, or Urubamba Valley, is a culturally and historically significant area that lies in the midst of the Peruvian Andes, around 15 to 20 kilometers from Cusco. Our tour here included two key stops: Chinchero and Ollantaytambo. It was also the first full-day tour of our South America trip.

View of the Sacred Valley from Taray lookout point

Chinchero is a picturesque Andean village that is famous for Peruvian weaving. When we got here, we first went into Centro Cultural Parwa where we learned a bit about textile-making from local artisans.

Centro Cultural Parwa

We then walked across the street to see and feed some alpacas, llamas, and vicunas.

Feeding some alpacas

We were also given a brief talk about local produce by our tour guide. I didn't realize that there are thousands of different potato varieties!

We then walked towards Plaza de Chinchero, which is their main square. You need a ticket to visit this area (it was included in our tour, of course). My research indicates that you can get in with the Cusco Tourist Ticket which costs 130 Peruvian Soles and is valid for 10 days or you can get a partial ticket at 70 Peruvian Soles which is valid for 2 days and will allow you to visit Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, and Moray, all of which are in the Sacred Valley.

View of the Sacred Valley from Chinchero

Chinchero has an altitude of 3800 meters, making it the highest place we visited during our trip. Our tour guide told us that to get to the main square, we had to walk up some steps and it may be challenging because of the altitude (it was). Once we walked through the archway that leads to the main square, the view that greeted us was pretty awesome. The main square is where you can find the Chinchero Market or the Mercado de Artesanias.

Mercado de Artesanias (Chinchero Market)

On one side of the plaza stands the Chinchero Colonial Church, which was built by the Spanish around 1607 on top of the remains of an Incan Palace. Our guide told us that the paintings on the ceiling of this church haven't been retouched since they were painted centuries ago. Visitors are allowed to go inside the church but are not allowed to take photos.

I really loved this place, not only because of the market, the church, and the ruins, but also because it was so expansive. It helped that the skies were clear and the weather was great while we were there.

Once our guided tour of the main square was done, we were given about 15 minutes to go around and take pictures. While I maximized that time, I could easily have spent many more hours here walking around and appreciating (and taking photos of) the panoramic views and the Incan ruins.

We then left Chinchero and made our way to our lunch stop. Along the road, we stopped briefly at a viewing point of the Peruvian Andes.

Peruvian Andes

We also saw some women in traditional attire with some ornately dressed llamas. We just had to have photos taken with them too. :) Peruvian people often agree to have their photos taken with you but you do need to tip them for it.

After a satisfying buffet lunch, we then headed to our final stop that day: Ollantaytambo. Once again, tourists need a Cusco Tourist Ticket to visit this place. Ollantaytambo is known for being the starting point of the famous Inca Trail, which is the four-day hike to Machu Picchu. We weren't here for that though; instead, we were here to visit Temple Hill.

Temple Hill in Ollantaytambo

Apparently, there are more than 300 mostly uneven steps that lead to the top of  Temple Hill, which is where you will find the Temple of the Sun. Our tour guide asked us if we felt up to the challenge of going up. 300+ steps is normally not that difficult, but Ollantaytambo has an elevation of almost 2,800 meters so even minor physical activity would be difficult because of the thinner air. Still, everyone in our tour group was up for the challenge. Cool!

Of course, with everyone filled with so much energy and excitement, we all made it to the top. There were some really great views of the town from the Temple of the Sun.

This is also where you will find the Wall of the Six Monoliths. Apparently, each of these stones weighs at least 50 tons! I can't even imagine the effort required to bring them all the way up here from a nearby quarry.

Our tour of Sacred Valley was now complete and we headed to the train station in Ollantaytambo to catch the 4:36 PM train to Machu Picchu.

Next: Machu Picchu

Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba

The best hotel we stayed in during our South America trip was Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba. This hotel was awarded as one of the best new hotels in the world in 2016. I'm very happy that our tour included a one-night stay here.

Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba

We actually didn't have any tour activities on the day that we checked in here. I could have tried planning something but I felt it would be better to just relax because this was our first day in very high elevation; Sacred Valley is about 2,900 meters above sea level, meaning that there is a lot less oxygen in the air. I wasn't sure whether my mom and I would handle the elevation well or not (thankfully, we both did). Since we had no planned activities that afternoon, we got to enjoy our stay at the hotel a lot more.

Upon arrival and while waiting to be taken to our room, we were given Chicha Morada, which is a traditional Peruvian drink made from purple corn. It was actually quite good and refreshing. The fact that we enjoyed this drink while lounging comfortably at the hotel lobby and looking out at majestic mountains made the experience even more blissful. :)

Chicha Morada

We were then taken to our villa. The set-up of this hotel is that it has a central building where you can find the lobby and the restaurant while the villas where guests stay are a short walk away, spread across the mountainside. It was just such a charming set-up.

As if that wasn't enough, our room was very spacious, cozy, elegant, and comfortable. There's a fireplace in the room but we didn't use it.

Even the bathroom was huge and very tastefully designed. It features a large open closet that made it easy to hang our jackets and the clothes we would wear the next day.

We also had a great view of the mountains from our room.

After getting settled, we headed back to the hotel lobby where we spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening.

There are so many comfortable lounging areas here, including this cozy place in front of a fireplace.

Aside from the chicha morada, we also had one additional free drink. Guests had a choice of lemonade or Pisco Sour, which is a Peruvian alcoholic cocktail. My mom ordered the lemonade while I got a Pisco Sour. I love how the lemonade was all glammed up (although it was difficult to drink LOL) while the Pisco Sour had a Superman symbol on it. :)

I spent most of the afternoon and early evening going around the grounds, taking dozens upon dozens of photos.

Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba is a very photogenic hotel, especially at dusk when the lights give it a glorious glow.

The hotel is secluded, meaning that there are no restaurants or convenience stores around, so it made sense to just have dinner at Earth to Table, the hotel restaurant. The cool thing about Earth to Table is that it focuses on using local produce from Urubamba, making it more ecologically friendly and giving guests a good opportunity to enjoy locally grown food.

For dinner, I had the Trucha Pituca de Puno a la Plancha, or Grilled Trout from Lake Titicaca on black quinoa, sauteed prawns, dehydrated onions, toasted fennel, and lavender sauce. It was very good. And healthy, I think. :)

Our tour of Sacred Valley was scheduled the next day, which also meant we already had to check out. Of course, after a nourishing breakfast, we still had time to take more photos before saying farewell to this extraordinary hotel.

Next: Sacred Valley

Lima, Peru

Our first stop in South America was Lima, the capital of Peru.

Government Palace

We spent two nights here before heading to the Sacred Valley and our itinerary included a half-day city tour on the one full day we had in Lima. This meant that we had a free morning to do what we wanted. The guide from Condor Travel who picked us up from the airport shared some information about Lima with us on our way to our hotel. She also told us that most visitors to Lima choose to stay in Miraflores, which is a pretty high-end district with lots of good restaurants, hotels, and shopping areas. We spent our first morning in Lima walking leisurely around Miraflores.

Cobblestone streets in the Miraflores District

Our hotel is a short walk from Parque Kennedy, or Kennedy Park, which is the central plaza of Miraflores. This is where Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa, or the Church of the Miraculous Virgin, can be found.

Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa or Church of the Miraculous Virgin

To get to Parque Kennedy, we passed through what is known as Calle de las Pizzas or Pizza Street. This short alley is lined with restaurants, a few of them pizza places, but it is more popular at night when it becomes a lively and vibrant place where people hang out and have some drinks.

Calle de las Pizzas or Pizza Street

The cool thing about Lima is that is is actually a coastal city. On our way from the airport to our hotel, we passed by the Pacific Ocean. Our hotel was only a short walk from the coast so we decided to head over there for a closer look. Despite it being about 18 degrees Celsius in Lima (I'm sure the water would have felt colder), a lot of people were still surfing.

The Pacific Ocean

At 2pm, we were picked up at our hotel by Condor Travel for our city tour. Our first official stop was at Casa de la Literatura Peruana, or House of the Peruvian Literature. This building used to be Lima's main train station.

Casa de la Literatura Peruana or House of the Peruvian Literature

It is now a library that also houses temporary art exhibits. There are many stained glass windows and a beautiful stained glass ceiling that let a lot of light into the building.

Stained glass ceiling in Casa de la Literatura Peruana

A short walk down the street is Choco Museo, which isn't really a museum but a chocolate shop chain. We didn't buy anything here but my mom did try a free sample.

Choco Museo

We then headed to Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas de Lima, which is the main square of Lima. The importance of this square is emphasized by the buildings that surround it. On the west stands the Municipal Palace of Lima, which is where the mayor holds office.

Plaza Mayor and the Municipal Palace of Lima (on the right)

It is flanked on the east by the Basilica Cathedral of Lima and the Archbishop's Palace of Lima. Peru is still a mainly Catholic country, with more than 70% of its population being Catholic. The Archbishop's Palace has ornate cedar balconies. Our tour guide told us that balconies in Lima carry a lot of significance. Collectively, they played a key part in the Historic Centre of Lima being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Archbishop's Palace and the Basilica Cathedral of Lima

Finally, on the north of Plaza Mayor stands the Government Palace, which is the official residence of the president of Peru.

View of the Government Palace from Plaza Mayor

Finally, our tour brought us to the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, which is where we spent the most time during our city tour.

Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo

The first room we visit in our tour of the convent is the guest room, the highlight of which is the gorgeous Mudéjar-style ceiling. This style originates in the Iberian Peninsula that was strongly influenced by Moorish architecture.

Mudéjar-style coffered ceiling of the guest room at the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo

The library holds thousands of centuries-old books, including some of the oldest used by the Dominicans. I'm guessing that this room remains dim to prevent light-related damage of the books and artifacts that are kept here but the low light definitely adds to the magic. I remember muttering an audible "wow" as soon as I stepped in.

Library of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo

The Church and Convent of Santo Domingo is also famous for its tribute to the Peruvian saints: Santa Rosa de Lima, St. Martin de Porres, and St. John Macias.  Our tour guide told us that 3D printers were used to create models of the skulls of these three saints, which were then used to create impressions of their faces.

3D-printed skull models of the Peruvian saints

The skulls, face impressions, and paintings of these saints are on display at the altarpiece inside the church that is dedicated to them.

The Peruvian saints: St. Martin de Porres, Santa Rosa de Lima, and St. John Macias

Finally, we visited the crypt of Santa Rosa de Lima. When our tour guide found out that my mom and I were from the Philippines, he told us that Santa Rosa was a patron saint of the Philippines. I didn't know this so I decided to do a bit of research on this afterwards. It seems she used to be a co-patron of the Philippines and was moved to second-class patronage in September 1942 by Pope Pius XII. In fact, Santa Rosa City in Laguna is named after her and there is a parish dedicated to her in the city.

The crypt of Santa Rosa de Lima

If I could redo my trip to Lima (or if we had one extra day), I would love to visit Plaza San Martin just to marvel at, and take photos of, the beautiful buildings around this plaza and the massive monument of Jose de San Martin, who is known as the Liberator of Argentina, Chile, and Peru. I would also love to walk around Park of the Exhibition, which features beautiful structures and is surrounded by buildings that feature impressive architecture. Instead of walking down towards the beach, I would head up to Parque del Amor, or Park of Love, which offers grand views of the Pacific Ocean amidst a beautiful park with many spots that are ideal for photo ops. I would also ask our tour guide to give us maybe an extra five minutes at the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo so we could buy a rosary at the church. My mom wanted to buy a rosary but our bus was on its way to pick us up and the person at the shop couldn't speak English so my mom ended up getting just a postcard. Still, it was a good start to our South American sojourn.

Next: Inkaterra Hacienda Urumbamba, our hotel in Sacred Valley

Prepping for our South America Trip

It started some time after my trip to Russia back in 2013. I realized then that while it was enjoyable for me to travel and see more of the world, I wanted my family to see more of the world too. In fact, I started thinking of some of the countries I've been to that I would like the rest of my family to see. I then decided that my future international trips should almost always include at least one other member of my family. I mapped out a list of countries that I wanted to visit and also take my family to, did some high level estimates of how much each trip would cost, and spread out these trips over the next 15-20 years in a way that I could save enough money for all of them. (Talk about long-term planning LOL.) I also knew that it would be better to go to the places that are difficult to visit sooner since I would still be younger and fitter and I would have more energy. As such, South America seemed like the obvious pick for my next international trip, what with the long flights, the language barrier, and some degree of physical activity and exertion required in a trip to this continent. I asked my mom if she was interested to visit Machu Picchu and she said she was. I then decided that my next trip would be to South America and I would take my mom there.

 Machu Picchu, Peru

The initial plan was to go on this trip in 2017. There were five places I specifically wanted to visit: Machu Picchu in Peru, Christ the Redeemer in Brazil, Iguassu/Iguazu Falls in Brazil/Argentina, the Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina, and Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. Four countries would be a bit too much so I decided to plan a trip to Peru, Brazil, and Argentina first. (Bolivia could come later.)

Iguazu Falls (from the Argentina side)

I started the more detailed planning in 2016. A friend of mine went to Peru and Brazil on a DIY trip so she shared her itinerary with me, along with a lot of travel tips. However, given that I would be traveling with my mom, taking a tour seemed like a better idea because it would be a lot more convenient. Another friend who had also been to South America suggested I try to book a tour with Condor Travel. I searched for tour options from Condor Travel and I saw a three-country tour of Peru, Brazil, and Argentina. It was almost perfect; I say almost because that tour did not include a visit to Perito Moreno. Condor Travel did have a separate tour of Perito Moreno so I sent an email to Condor Travel asking them if it was possible to combine those two tours and how much it would cost. Condor Travel then directed me to their partner Journeyou. This started what would end up being more than 200 emails sent to and received from Journeyou from 2016 all the way up to 2018.

Mini-trekking in the Perito Moreno Glacier

The original plan was to go on this trip in September 2017. However, I just started a new job. Also, when I finally told my mom that she would need to go on leave for three weeks, she said she wasn't ready to be gone that long from work yet. (She initially thought she would just need to be out for maybe 1-2 weeks.) As such, we decided to postpone our trip to 2018 instead. And now, after all that planning, saving, preparation, and rescheduling, we finally made it to South America. And what a fantastic trip it was!

View of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil from Corcovado Mountain

This was our itinerary:

Day 0 - depart Manila
Day 1 - arrival in Lima. Peru
Day 2 - half-day tour of Lima in the afternoon
Day 3 - flight to Cusco, travel to and check into Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba in Sacred Valley, which has a lower altitude than Cusco to help in acclimatization
Day 4 - Sacred Valley tour, train to Machu Picchu, overnight in Machu Picchu
Day 5 - half-day tour of Machu Picchu, train to Cusco
Day 6 - free day in Cusco
Day 7 - flight to and overnight in Lima
Day 8 - flight to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Day 9 - whole day Rio de Janeiro tour
Day 10 - flight to Iguassu; Iguassu falls Brazil side short tour
Day 11 - cross the border to Argentina, Iguazu falls Argentina side half-day tour
Day 12 - flight to Buenos Aires
Day 13 - Buenos Aires half-day tour in the morning, dinner and Argentinean Tango show at night
Day 14 - flight to El Calafate
Day 15 - Perito Moreno Glacier whole day tour with mini-trekking
Day 16 - flight to Buenos Aires
Day 17 - flight to Lima, then flight back to Manila
Day 18 - in transit
Day 19 - arrival in Manila (it's a 35-hour flight via Europe and due to the time difference, we essentially lose a day)

Plaza de Armas in Cusco, Peru at night

Next: Lima, Peru

South America Trip of a Lifetime

Conceptualization started four years ago. Detailed planning started two years ago. More than 200 emails sent back and forth to my travel agent based halfway around the world. A lot of effort spent on visa application and flight booking. The result? An unforgettable trip of a lifetime to South America that brought me and my mom to three countries - Peru, Brazil, and Argentina - and allowed me to visit four places that have been in my bucket list for more than a decade. These were:

1. Machu Picchu in Peru

2. Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) in Brazil

3. Iguassu/Iguazu falls in Brazil/Argentina

4. Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina

My mom and I spent 17 days in South America, took a total of 12 flights, and stayed in 10 different hotels. We also had to fly through Europe instead of the US or Canada because we didn't have transit visas. This meant that it took us 35 hours to go from the Philippines to Peru and 35 hours from Peru to Manila. It also meant that this trip was both expensive and exhausting. Still, it was absolutely worth it as it was very exhilarating, enriching, and soul-stirring. I will be writing in detail about this fantastic experience over the next several blog posts.