Saturday, September 15, 2018

Lima, Peru

Our first stop in South America was Lima, the capital of Peru.

Government Palace

We spent two nights here before heading to the Sacred Valley and our itinerary included a half-day city tour on the one full day we had in Lima. This meant that we had a free morning to do what we wanted. The guide from Condor Travel who picked us up from the airport shared some information about Lima with us on our way to our hotel. She also told us that most visitors to Lima choose to stay in Miraflores, which is a pretty high-end district with lots of good restaurants, hotels, and shopping areas. We spent our first morning in Lima walking leisurely around Miraflores.

Cobblestone streets in the Miraflores District

Our hotel is a short walk from Parque Kennedy, or Kennedy Park, which is the central plaza of Miraflores. This is where Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa, or the Church of the Miraculous Virgin, can be found.

Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa or Church of the Miraculous Virgin

To get to Parque Kennedy, we passed through what is known as Calle de las Pizzas or Pizza Street. This short alley is lined with restaurants, a few of them pizza places, but it is more popular at night when it becomes a lively and vibrant place where people hang out and have some drinks.

Calle de las Pizzas or Pizza Street

The cool thing about Lima is that is is actually a coastal city. On our way from the airport to our hotel, we passed by the Pacific Ocean. Our hotel was only a short walk from the coast so we decided to head over there for a closer look. Despite it being about 18 degrees Celsius in Lima (I'm sure the water would have felt colder), a lot of people were still surfing.

The Pacific Ocean

At 2pm, we were picked up at our hotel by Condor Travel for our city tour. Our first official stop was at Casa de la Literatura Peruana, or House of the Peruvian Literature. This building used to be Lima's main train station.

Casa de la Literatura Peruana or House of the Peruvian Literature

It is now a library that also houses temporary art exhibits. There are many stained glass windows and a beautiful stained glass ceiling that let a lot of light into the building.

Stained glass ceiling in Casa de la Literatura Peruana

A short walk down the street is Choco Museo, which isn't really a museum but a chocolate shop chain. We didn't buy anything here but my mom did try a free sample.

Choco Museo

We then headed to Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas de Lima, which is the main square of Lima. The importance of this square is emphasized by the buildings that surround it. On the west stands the Municipal Palace of Lima, which is where the mayor holds office.

Plaza Mayor and the Municipal Palace of Lima (on the right)

It is flanked on the east by the Basilica Cathedral of Lima and the Archbishop's Palace of Lima. Peru is still a mainly Catholic country, with more than 70% of its population being Catholic. The Archbishop's Palace has ornate cedar balconies. Our tour guide told us that balconies in Lima carry a lot of significance. Collectively, they played a key part in the Historic Centre of Lima being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Archbishop's Palace and the Basilica Cathedral of Lima

Finally, on the north of Plaza Mayor stands the Government Palace, which is the official residence of the president of Peru.

View of the Government Palace from Plaza Mayor

Finally, our tour brought us to the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, which is where we spent the most time during our city tour.

Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo

The first room we visit in our tour of the convent is the guest room, the highlight of which is the gorgeous Mudéjar-style ceiling. This style originates in the Iberian Peninsula that was strongly influenced by Moorish architecture.

Mudéjar-style coffered ceiling of the guest room at the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo

The library holds thousands of centuries-old books, including some of the oldest used by the Dominicans. I'm guessing that this room remains dim to prevent light-related damage of the books and artifacts that are kept here but the low light definitely adds to the magic. I remember muttering an audible "wow" as soon as I stepped in.

Library of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo

The Church and Convent of Santo Domingo is also famous for its tribute to the Peruvian saints: Santa Rosa de Lima, St. Martin de Porres, and St. John Macias.  Our tour guide told us that 3D printers were used to create models of the skulls of these three saints, which were then used to create impressions of their faces.

3D-printed skull models of the Peruvian saints

The skulls, face impressions, and paintings of these saints are on display at the altarpiece inside the church that is dedicated to them.


The Peruvian saints: St. Martin de Porres, Santa Rosa de Lima, and St. John Macias

Finally, we visited the crypt of Santa Rosa de Lima. When our tour guide found out that my mom and I were from the Philippines, he told us that Santa Rosa was a patron saint of the Philippines. I didn't know this so I decided to do a bit of research on this afterwards. It seems she used to be a co-patron of the Philippines and was moved to second-class patronage in September 1942 by Pope Pius XII. In fact, Santa Rosa City in Laguna is named after her and there is a parish dedicated to her in the city.

The crypt of Santa Rosa de Lima

If I could redo my trip to Lima (or if we had one extra day), I would love to visit Plaza San Martin just to marvel at, and take photos of, the beautiful buildings around this plaza and the massive monument of Jose de San Martin, who is known as the Liberator of Argentina, Chile, and Peru. I would also love to walk around Park of the Exhibition, which features beautiful structures and is surrounded by buildings that feature impressive architecture. Instead of walking down towards the beach, I would head up to Parque del Amor, or Park of Love, which offers grand views of the Pacific Ocean amidst a beautiful park with many spots that are ideal for photo ops. I would also ask our tour guide to give us maybe an extra five minutes at the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo so we could buy a rosary at the church. My mom wanted to buy a rosary but our bus was on its way to pick us up and the person at the shop couldn't speak English so my mom ended up getting just a postcard. Still, it was a good start to our South American sojourn.


Next: Inkaterra Hacienda Urumbamba, our hotel in Sacred Valley

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