We booked a DMZ Spy Tour because my friend Mitch really wanted to go to the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) which is the ceasefire area between North and South Korea. However, shortly before our trip, we were told that we wouldn't be able to go to the DMZ because of swine flu concerns (presumably on the North Korean side). The tour company proposed some changes to the itinerary which we were ok with so we proceeded with the modified tour.
Our first stop was Bugaksan Mountain. Our tour indicated that this was the infiltration path of North Korean Spy Commandos. We started out at the Bugak Palgakjeong Pavilion or the Bugak Skyway Octagonal Pavilion...
...before going on a bit of a casual stroll/hike. We walked along a path that allowed us to take in some panoramic views of Seoul, especially at the Bugaksan Mountain Sky Observatory. (It actually started snowing ever so slightly while we were here; you can probably see a bit of the snow if you zoom into the following picture).
Our next stop was the Odusan Unification Tower. This observatory gives visitors a glimpse of the separation of North and South Korea and the impact that this division has had and continues to have on all Koreans.
The tower is located at the at the South Korean border, where the Han and the Imjin Rivers meet. There are many telescopes around the tower that allow visitors to look across the border to North Korea.
Possibly the most moving exhibit in the tower is called My Town, which shares photos and memories of families separated by the Korean war. It was heartbreaking to see pictures of these families, knowing that some of them were never, or will never be, reunited during their lifetimes.
After visiting the Odusan Unification Tower, we then headed to Imjingak Peace Park (also called Imjingak Resort) which also commemorates the Korean War. According to wikipedia, it was built to console Koreans who have been separated from their loved ones due to the division of Korea. One wall in the park is filled with ribbons that have messages of hope and prayers for unification.
Visitors can also see a section of the Gyeongui Train Line which was destroyed during the Korean War.
After lunch, we headed to a coffee shop at the War Memorial Museum Wedding Hall for what would be one of the highlights of my Korea trip: an interview with a North Korean defector. To be honest, I came into this interview with a lot of trepidation because I wasn't sure I would know what questions to ask or if the questions I thought would be too sensitive or even offensive. But once the interview started, my concerns quickly disappeared. As we listened to our interviewee's stories, we all wanted to learn and understand more and everyone in our group asked multiple questions. What I heard during this interview could fill a blog post or two by itself, but it was moving, humbling, and sobering to discover why our interviewee decided to defect, how he did it, the challenges he faced in crossing the border and later in bringing his family with him, and financially supporting his other loved ones who are still north of the border. Even as I write this, I am moved when I recall the tremendous difficulty that our interviewee had to endure and the fear he had for his life which led him to leave North Korea. One of the most heartbreaking things he said was after Kim Jong Il began his rule in 1994, North Korea experienced a massive famine that resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths due to starvation. He even recounted seeing dead bodies piling up on the streets. :( I can't even begin to wrap my head around that.
After the interview, our guide took us to the War Memorial of Korea. This museum is massive, with exhibits spread across three floors of the museum. Due to the limited time we had, we skipped the first floor, which features historical exhibits prior to the North Korean invasion in 1950. We headed immediately to the second floor which holds the Korean War exhibits.
We then made our way to the third floor which displays items that have been donated to the museum. The exhibits here showcase the nations and troops who fought to restore peace. There was a section the featured the Philippines. An estimated 7,420 Filipinos fought in the Korean War, with 113 being killed in action and 229 more being wounded.
This was the last stop of our tour. The day was absolutely jam-packed but it was very enriching and powerful. I highly recommend this to anyone who visits Seoul. Our tour was run by Kevin Hwang. I believe my friend Mitch booked him through With Locals. There are a couple of sites that provide Kevin's contact info (such as this and this) so if you are interested in booking this same tour or taking the proper DMZ Spy Tour (when there is no restriction to enter the DMZ), check out these sites so you can contact Kevin.
Wall of photos and memories at the My Town exhibit in the Odusan Unification Tower
Our first stop was Bugaksan Mountain. Our tour indicated that this was the infiltration path of North Korean Spy Commandos. We started out at the Bugak Palgakjeong Pavilion or the Bugak Skyway Octagonal Pavilion...
Bugak Skyway Octagonal Pavilion
...before going on a bit of a casual stroll/hike. We walked along a path that allowed us to take in some panoramic views of Seoul, especially at the Bugaksan Mountain Sky Observatory. (It actually started snowing ever so slightly while we were here; you can probably see a bit of the snow if you zoom into the following picture).
Bugakgsan Mountain Sky Observatory, with a little snowfall :)
Our next stop was the Odusan Unification Tower. This observatory gives visitors a glimpse of the separation of North and South Korea and the impact that this division has had and continues to have on all Koreans.
Odusan Unification Tower
The tower is located at the at the South Korean border, where the Han and the Imjin Rivers meet. There are many telescopes around the tower that allow visitors to look across the border to North Korea.
Possibly the most moving exhibit in the tower is called My Town, which shares photos and memories of families separated by the Korean war. It was heartbreaking to see pictures of these families, knowing that some of them were never, or will never be, reunited during their lifetimes.
Photos of families who were separated by the Korean War :(
After visiting the Odusan Unification Tower, we then headed to Imjingak Peace Park (also called Imjingak Resort) which also commemorates the Korean War. According to wikipedia, it was built to console Koreans who have been separated from their loved ones due to the division of Korea. One wall in the park is filled with ribbons that have messages of hope and prayers for unification.
Imjingak Peace Park
Visitors can also see a section of the Gyeongui Train Line which was destroyed during the Korean War.
Gyeongui Train Line
After lunch, we headed to a coffee shop at the War Memorial Museum Wedding Hall for what would be one of the highlights of my Korea trip: an interview with a North Korean defector. To be honest, I came into this interview with a lot of trepidation because I wasn't sure I would know what questions to ask or if the questions I thought would be too sensitive or even offensive. But once the interview started, my concerns quickly disappeared. As we listened to our interviewee's stories, we all wanted to learn and understand more and everyone in our group asked multiple questions. What I heard during this interview could fill a blog post or two by itself, but it was moving, humbling, and sobering to discover why our interviewee decided to defect, how he did it, the challenges he faced in crossing the border and later in bringing his family with him, and financially supporting his other loved ones who are still north of the border. Even as I write this, I am moved when I recall the tremendous difficulty that our interviewee had to endure and the fear he had for his life which led him to leave North Korea. One of the most heartbreaking things he said was after Kim Jong Il began his rule in 1994, North Korea experienced a massive famine that resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths due to starvation. He even recounted seeing dead bodies piling up on the streets. :( I can't even begin to wrap my head around that.
After the interview, our guide took us to the War Memorial of Korea. This museum is massive, with exhibits spread across three floors of the museum. Due to the limited time we had, we skipped the first floor, which features historical exhibits prior to the North Korean invasion in 1950. We headed immediately to the second floor which holds the Korean War exhibits.
War Memorial of Korea
We then made our way to the third floor which displays items that have been donated to the museum. The exhibits here showcase the nations and troops who fought to restore peace. There was a section the featured the Philippines. An estimated 7,420 Filipinos fought in the Korean War, with 113 being killed in action and 229 more being wounded.
Tribute to the Philippines
This was the last stop of our tour. The day was absolutely jam-packed but it was very enriching and powerful. I highly recommend this to anyone who visits Seoul. Our tour was run by Kevin Hwang. I believe my friend Mitch booked him through With Locals. There are a couple of sites that provide Kevin's contact info (such as this and this) so if you are interested in booking this same tour or taking the proper DMZ Spy Tour (when there is no restriction to enter the DMZ), check out these sites so you can contact Kevin.
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