Thursday, July 04, 2013

Palaces around St. Petersburg

We visited three palaces located just outside St. Petersburg. We spent a full day visiting two of them which are located next to each other - Pavlovsk and Catherine Palaces - while we spent most of our last day at the Peterhof Palace. All of these are about an hour away from St. Petersburg but are all worth the trip.


Of the three palaces we visited, Pavlovsk Palace is the most subdued. It doesn't have the grandeur as the other two palaces; its facade is not as striking and its room are not as massive.However, it is exactly these qualities that give Pavlosvk palace a very homey feel. It was built by Paul I in Pavlovsk near Saint Petersburg and used as an Imperial residence so it makes perfect sense that this house is like a comfortable mansion set amidst sprawling greenery. After the death of Paul I, the palace became the home of his widow, Maria Feodorovna.

Pavlovsk Palace

Our tour guide Irina (she was also our guide at the Hermitage) took us through several different rooms in the palace. We had to put on covers over our shoes so as not to damage the floor and you also have to pay extra (200 rubles I think) to take pictures inside. Irina talked in detail about each room, although I did miss some of what she said as I was too busy taking photos.


One of the most interesting things on display was what is called the Sèvres porcelain toilet set (see photo below) located in the State Bedroom. Irina told us that when the Germans invaded Russia, the curators of the palace started packing  the palace collection and moving them to safer locations to hide them. Supposedly, the mold that was used to create the Sèvres porcelain toilet set was destroyed. Whether this is true or not, this set on display at the Pavlovsk is the only one of its kind that was ever produced.


After our trip tour inside the palace, we had a few minutes to spare. So we walked about the park outside the palace for a bit and take photos. My mom also had a bit of time to buy souvenirs.


After spending a morning in Pavlovsk, we headed to Catherine Palace which is a short drive away. This is probably the most lavish and visually stunning of all the palaces we visited outside St. Petersburg. Located in Tsarskoe Selo, it was named after Catherine I and used as a summer residence of Russian tsars.

Catherine Palace

One of the most impressive and jaw-dropping rooms in this palace is the Grand Hall or Hall of Lights, a ballroom used for important receptions. Arched windows, electric lamps, gilded walls and mirrors make this room explode with sheer brilliance. In true baroque style, a majestic sky-themed painting covers the entire ceiling.


The Grand Hall is probably trumped by only one room - the Amber Room - and you can read more about it here. Unfortunately, it is the only location in the palace where photographs are not allowed. There is a long corridor that spans the entire length of the palace, connecting the different rooms here. If you stand at one end and look through the corridor, you can see door after door after door. I think our guide Irina called these the infinite doors. In any case, it was definitely worth a picture. You can also see the immense number of people visiting the palace that day.


The palace is set amidst a beautiful park. Apparently, it didn't look like this naturally. The park was landscaped and even the lake is man-made. Nevertheless, it is very beautiful and peaceful.


Our final day was spent at the Peterhof Palace. It is known as the Russian Versailles because Peter the Great commissioned the palace complex and its beautiful gardens and fountains to be modeled after Versailles. We were there on May 9, Victory Day, and we were very lucky that when we went to view the Grand Cascade, we got to view a fireworks display. A few minutes earlier or later and we would have missed it completely.

Peterhof Palace

Known as Petrodvorets from 1944 to 1997 during the Soviet era, Peterhof Palace is located at the Gulf of Finland so we decided to have a closer look at this easternmost part of the Baltic sea.


Photos are not allowed inside the palace so all of our pictures here were taken around the garden. I can't recall now what our guide told us but I think there are close to 200 fountains here, all of different sizes and designs.


We spent about 4 hours in Peterhof but I would have liked to spend a bit more time to see more of the gardens and fountains and so we could also purchase a few souvenirs (it's really tough to buy stuff when you are on tour, even if it is private, due to the time limitations). Apparently you can easily get to the Peterhof Palace via hydrofoil (450 rubles one-way) from the Neva River near the Hermitage. If spending more time here is more important to you than learning historical details of the different rooms in the palace, traveling on your own might be a better option than taking a private tour.

Next post: More St. Petersburg.

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